Culion

Once a remote island used primarily as a leper colony, Culion is a place with a historical background. We were lucky to have met someone in Coron who knew a local, who offered to guide us around town for a day. So we decided to take a day trip to visit present Culion and learn a little about it's facsinating past. We took a banca boat approx. 2500-3000Php from Coron to Culion.

We first walked about 10 minutes from the port to the main church. Our first impressions were that Spanish influences are still very much present in the architecture of the old town today. Afterwards, our guide also took us up to one of the hotels located on a cliff with a truly spectacular view for lunch. Though the ocean views are comparable to a gorgeous Mediterranean seascape, Culion is still only slowly opening up to tourism, and currently has only two hotels on the island. This makes accomodation and food choices very limited, so don't expect any sidewalk reaturants or burger joints. We recommend going to the hotel we visited on the cliff (which used to be an orphanage years ago) the other is by the port. We then walked around downtown and climbed the 330 steps to see the island's Eagle Crest and take in more beautiful ocean views. We highly recommend this steep trek as it gives you an amazing panorama of the surrounding islands.

We also visited the Leperosy Musem (Culion Sanitarium) and learned about all the medical advances that helped cure the disease and how life was inside the colony. The museum contains rare artifacts from the early 1900's that were used with patients. We also watched a short film about the history of the island. We found out that there are still people living next door in the hospital that were once leper patients, but have since been cured of the disease. Museum cost is 250Php for foreigners, 50Php for locals.

We realized that depiste some limited tourist resources, Culion is a very special place with a lot of growth potential, simply a gem waiting to be discovered.

Coron, Busuanga Island

After a few days of exploring the caves and white sand beaches of El Nido, it was time to head north and seek out our next adventure. We bought a ferry ticket on The Princess Welia for 2,200 pesos (Approx. $48 USD) and took the 7 hour ride to the town of Coron on Busuanga Island. Coron is a quaint costal town with remnants of Spanish-European influence in the layout and architecture. To divers, it's known for the twelve WWII Japanese ship wrecks that sunk around the islands near Busuanga. When we arrived, the Princess Welia pulled right up to the front steps of Seadive Resort, where we easily booked a room for the next few days. (A cool tip: One of the staff moved us to room #209 upstairs where we had an outdoor patio that overlooked the port. It was one of the most comfortable places we stayed in on our trip. The staff member also mentioned to us that it was her favorite room.)

Day One: We took our cameras and hiked up to Mt. Tapyas, where the most prominent landmark The Cross, is displayed in Coron. However, we soon realized that climbing the 717 cement steps to the top is no easy feat! So we recommend bringing plenty of water and allowing a good 30 to 45 minutes before sunset to reaching the top. Once you're there, you'll realize your sore leg muscles are a small price to pay for the spectacular sunset view. Remember to stretch and rest well for the next day's journey ahead! 

Day Two: We decided to book a diving day with Coron Divers to explore the famous diving in the area. The first dive of the day started in Barracuda Lake, a hot thermal lake actually located inside a Volcano crater. The lake is a mix of freshwater/saltwater with a thermocline, and tempertures can soar between 30-38 degrees Celsius. No dive suit needed! To get to the lake, we needed to climb some wooden steps (with all our dive gear) between the limestone formations. Though the visibility underwater was somewhat darker than expected (as opposed to the surface), you can see saltwater creatures that somehow survive the water's high temperatures. Legend has it that the lake is named after a particularly large barracuda living in the vicinity. Despite not seeing any barracudas along the way, it was definitely one of the most fascinating dives we have ever encountered.

The next two dives we did were Japanese wrecks: the Tangat & Olympia Maru. We did not bring our underwater camera gear with us (as it requires extensive lighting & equipment) but to get an idea of wreck diving, you can view some images on this informative dive site link: http://www.divesitedirectory.co.uk/dive_site_philippines_palawan_coron_wreck_... We can definitely support the fact that Coron has some spectacular wreck diving. For those not interested in wreck diving because they think may be dismal compared to colorful marine life, the wreck sites in Coron will prove critics wrong. There is such an abundance of coral and marine life growing on and around the ships. From the thousands of fish we encountered, the smallest seaworm, nudebranch, clownfish, to the large tropical lionfish, these dives were nothing short of amazing. The silhouettes of the wrecks also added a certain mystique to the dive, as light filtered through the cargo rooms and crevices to the outer surface of the ship. Every passage we went through had it's own mystery and wonder. We do advise that you are an experienced diver before attempting a wreck dive, as it requires steady buoyancy to pass through narrow entrances. However, if you make it here, you may agree that it tops our list as the best aquatic adventure in Palawan! 

At the end of the day, we had an engine failure on our banca boat from Coron Divers and our divemaster Dino had to call another boat to get us. Here is our rescue boat arriving. We were not particularly worried, but after several boats passed us within an hour, we were very happy to finally see our rescue boat arrive! Hooray, just in the nick of time before sunset!

We had also heard about the Makinit Hot Springs, located just a 20 minute tricyicle ride from town. So after dinner, we headed to the Hot Springs to take a theraputic dip in the water. It was the perfect way to soothe and rejuvinate our tired muscles after a long day of diving. We highly recommend this diving + spa itinerery!

Next stop...Culion! Stay tuned for more...

Island Hopping in El Nido

After a day of touring the islands in El Nido, it became obvious to us why this is one of the most popular destinations in Palawan. For starters, it has an endless array of cascading limestone cliffs, a truly impressive site. The captivating view from the main beachfront is just a glimpse to what lies beyond. From secret lagoons to white sand beaches and majestic caves (see our previous post) El Nido is a place full of mystery and enchantment.

Island Hopping Tours are an all-day excursion (9am-4pm) and advertise for about 500-700 pesos (approx $11-$15 USD) per person, depending on the destinations in the package. By arrranging a tour through a local banca-boat driver (next to Rico's Cottages where we stayed,) we got a deal for about 400 pesos per person for Tour A & 500 pesos for Tour B (in a group of four.) Fresh grilled fish, salad, and fruit are all included. Just bring your own water and beverages of choice. If you're yearning for a little more adventure and a day tour is just not enough for you, overnight packages are also available.

We suggest a hearty breakfast on the beach to start. Several restaurants offer breakfast with eggs, toast, and fresh-brewed coffee. You'll need the energy for a day of island hopping. Now away we go!

A view from within Small Lagoon and some other impressive limestone formations along the way.

Snake Island, appropriately named for it's winding "S" shaped sandbar.

Pinagbuyutan Island

Enthusiastic snorkelers swimming towards the lagoons.

Our multi-talented banca driver Dan Dan, cleverly constructing a hat from palm leaves.

Lunch on the tours consisted of fresh grilled fish and salad, ripe mango and bananas.

7 Commando Beach is usually the last stop on tour A.  The only island with a relaxing small refreshment stand, it's the perfect place to enjoy a Buko (Coconut) juice after a day of island hopping. Included in the 50 pesos ($1.25 USD) the woman at the stand can also open up the Buko after your last sip and make a spoon for you to scoop the remains of the creamy flesh. Now that's a taste of paradise!

Photo of the Day: June 27th

We visited the endangered Philippine crocodiles at the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center in Puerto Princessa City. Experts believe there may be less than 100 remaining in the wild today. The Wildlife Center maintains a crocodile farm, where the reptiles are bred and protected. We recommend a visit here to also see the baby crocs, and other exotic wildlife such as the bearded pig and Palawan porcupine.